Leather Storrs: Organic Gardening and The Power of Poop
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Thursday, February 26, 2015
Leather Storrs, GoLocalWorcester Contributor
The subject of
fecal transplanting seems a suicide intro for a food column. And yet, the very fact that we have progressed to a point where this practice is both plausible and sought after suggests a major disturbance in the force.
A rapid rise in gastro-intestinal issues coupled with increases in allergies and food intolerance is being combatted with the theory that microbial diversity is the key to healthy guts. Moreover, the breakdown of the mechanism we use to process and move fuel through our human machine demands that we take a more critical and careful look at our fuel.
As far as trendy topicality, fecal transplanting nails the talking points. It gets all three “R’s”-reduce, reuse, recycle- it’s endlessly sustainable, often organic and it’s a folksy, low-tech solve to a spooky modern problem.
Unfortunately, it is not a proactive solution, but rather a back end band-aid (…must…resist…poop jokes…) designed to address the damage caused by our flawed fuel and twenty first century lifestyle. I can see the New Yorker cartoon now.
One haggard businessman at a 3 martini lunch says to his companion: “It’s o.k., I’ve got a freezer full of turds from a 20 year old aboriginal vegan.”
The central argument behind fecal transplanting is that healthy and diverse gut flora = healthy intestines, better resistance to infection and disease and a better ability to process raw material.
A version of this concept was first and best explained to me by Doug Tunnel, the owner and wine maker of Brick House Vineyards. Tunnel planted the first organic vineyard in the state of Oregon and he continues to make extraordinary Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir from its fruit.
I worked at Brick House for three years at the turn of the century and many of my thoughts about the politics of food were shaped by Tunnel’s teaching. After a day of driving a tractor equipped with two flamethrowers through the vineyard, Doug expounded on the reasons behind flames instead of Round-up as an herbicide (as if anyone needs a real reason to drive around with a fire breathing monster tractor).
Biological diversity makes it difficult for one organism to gain a majority over others. Full spectrum herbicides wipe out broad swaths of organisms and drastically reduce an ecosystem's ability to self-govern. It is not a great leap to apply the same thinking to guts, or even society.
Research on the gut flora of different cultures proves an inverse relationship between technology and health. The more processed the fuel we put into our bodies, the less diversity we have in our intestines and the more likely we are to suffer from G.I. distress and food intolerance.
Antibiotics, pesticides and Rudy Giuliani are all examples of threats to diversity. The difference in the farming example is that it is a pro-active approach rather than a reactionary one. Regardless, the ultimate message is a simple one: If you want to participate in a cultural shift towards health and biological sustainability, stop eating crap instead of swapping it.
Leather Storrs has served 20 years in professional kitchens. He owns a piece of two restaurants: Noble Rot and Nobleoni, where he yells and waves arms. He quietly admits to having been a newspaper critic in Austin, Texas and Portland, Oregon.
Related Slideshow: Worcester Restaurant Week 2015: Participating Restaurants
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Brew Cit
Address: 104 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
Site: Brew City
Restaurant Week Menu
~ APPETIZER ~ (Choice of one)
Open Season Duck Taco
Hoisin, Sweet Chili and Peanut Glazed Wings
Spinach and Artichoke Brie Fondue
~ ENTREE ~(Choice of one)
Country Fried Statler Chicken
Grilled Vegetable Bechemel Lasagna
Grilled 8oz Sirloin
Cranberry Cornbread Stuffed Pork Loin
Pan Blackened Catfish
~ DESSERT~ (Choice of one)
“Beeramisu” – Brew House Tiramisu made with Stout, Lady Fingers, & Mascarpone
Young’s Double Chocolate Stout Float
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Cafe Espresso Trattoria
Address: 395 Chandler Street, Worcester
Site: Cafe Espresso Trattoria
Restaurant Week Menu
APPETIZERS
Arancini Siciliani - Fried risotto balls with imported meats, cheeses, and peas on a bed of red sauce
Insalata di Caffe Espresso- Roasted red peppers, beets, pickled eggs and caramelized walnuts finished on a bed of greens with reduced balsamic glaze
Polenta Boscaiola - Tuscany ragu with sausage, onions, mushrooms, tomato, and white wine with shaved grana podano cheese atop fresh polenta cakes
ENTREES
Pasta bibo - Choice of pasta with a lightly spicy bibo sauce (diced onion, garlic, oregano, basil) add grilled chicken 3 | grilled veal 6 | grilled shrimp 7| grilled salmon 10
Peperoni ripieni alla Toscana - Seafood stuffed peppers served with cheese ravioli in a lobster cream sauce
Penne Pecorino - Penne pasta tossed in a creamy Pecorino Romano and béchamel meat ragu finished in the oven
Pollo San Marco - Roasted onion and truffle puree atop lightly breaded chicken cutlets | served with a side
DESSERT
Cannoli | Bread Pudding
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Ceres Bistro
Address: 363 Plantation Street, Worcester (inside Beechwood Hotel)
Site: Ceres Bistro
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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The Compass Tavern
Address: 90 Harding Street
Site: The Compass Tavern
Restaurant Week Menu:
First Course
Soup Or Salad
Atlantic Crab Cakes
Buffalo Chicken Macaroni And Cheese
Entrees
Baked Haddock Florentine
Surf And Turf Sautéed Chicken And Jumbo Shrimp In Cayenne Alfredo Sauce
Baked Stuffed Chicken With Sausage And Apple Stuffing
Maple Glazed Grilled Boneless Pork Chops
Dessert
Apple Crisp Ala Mode Or Brownie Sundae
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El Basha
Address: 424 Belmont Street and 256 Park Avenue, Worcester
Site: El Basha
Restaurant Week Menu
*Worcester Locations only
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Joey's Bar and Grill
Address: 344 Chandler Street, Worcester
Site Joey's Bar and Grill
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Leo's Ristorante
Address: 11 Leo Turo Way, Worcester
Site: Leo's Ristorante
Restaurant Week Menu:
APPETIZERS
Italian Rangoon
Stuffed Cherry Peppers
Stuffed Mushrooms
Caesar Salad - Grilled Romaine with gorgonzola cheese chopped tomatoes drizzled with Balsamic Glaze
ENTREES
Chicken or Veal Saltimbocca- sautéed with white wine demi glaze Proscuitto, mushrooms and Mozzarella cheese Over ziti
Chicken Picatta - Served with risotto
Steak al la Pizzaiola - Sirloin grilled and smothered in peppers, mushrooms and marinara sauce
Seafood Fra Diavlo - mussels, squid and clams sautéed in a spicy marinara sauce over linguine
Eggplant Rollatini - Breaded eggplant stuffed with fresh ricotta cheese and Italian spices
DESSERT
Cannoli
Spumoni
Brownie or Chocolate Chip Sundae
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Lakeside Bar and Grille
Address: 97 Boston Turnpike, Shrewsbury
Site Lakeside Bar and Grille
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Loft 266
Address: 266 Park Avenue, Worcester
Site: Loft 266
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Mare e Monti Trattoria
Address: 19 Wall Street, Worcester
Site: Mare e Monti Trattoria
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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The mill at 185
Address: 185 West Boylston Street, West Boylston
Site: The mill at 185
Restaurant Week Menu:
Starters (Please choose one)
Side Garden Salad or Side Caesar Salad
Cup of soup du jour, Chili, Brunswick Stew, or Minestrone.
Entrees (Please choose one)
Beef Roquefort - 7oz sirloin medallions sauteed with roasted tomato, mushroom and spinach in shallot gorgonzola cream sauce. Served with garlic mashed potatoes and asparagus.
Haddock Diavolo- Haddock sauteed in a rosa sauce. Served with florentine ravioli.
Desserts (Please choose one)
Homemade Cannoli
Scoop of ice cream- Topped with Chocolate sauce and whipped cream
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Park Grill and Spirits
Address: 257 Park Avenue, Worcester
Site: Park Grille and Spirits
Restaurant Week Menu:
Starters:
Coconut Shrimp - Fried coconut shrimp served with a Sriracha Aioli dipping sauce.
Spinach & Artichoke Dip - Creamy, Spicy, Cheesy and delicious. Served with homemade Pita Chips.
MAIN COURSE:
Chicken Caprese - Grilled chicken breast fillet’s, sliced tomato, pesto and fresh mozzarella oven baked over a creamy pesto pasta.
Shrimp & Lobster Alfredo - Generous portions of shrimp and lobster meat in an Alfredo sauce served over bowtie pasta.
Lobster Stuffed Haddock - A fresh fillet of haddock stuffed with our homemade lobster stuffing. Served with vegetables and potatoes.
Park Grill Sirloin Steak Tips - A generous 10 ounces of rosemary and garlic marinated sirloin tips chargrilled then tossed with sautéed sweet peppers and onions in an olive oil and balsamic glaze. Served over rice pilaf.
Desserts:
Salted Caramel Crème Brulee Parfait The perfect cure for the sweet tooth. Layers of salted caramel and vanilla cream topped with whipped cream, caramel and chocolate sauce.
Fried Dough - Our homemade fresh dough topped with caramel sauce and powdered
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Pepe's Pizza
Address: 274 Franklin Street, Worcester
Site: Pepe's Pizza
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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The Perfect Game
Address: 64 Water Street, Worcester
Site: The Perfect Game
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Piccolo's
Address: 157 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
Site: Piccolo's
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Ritual
Address: 281 Main Street, Worcester
Site: Ritual
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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Sweet- Kitchen & Bar
Address: 72 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
Site: Sweet- Kitchen & Bar
Restaurant Week Menu:
Course One (Choose One)
Salad
Baby Kale, Cara Cara Orange, Red Onion, Toasted Almonds, Kalamata Olives, Local Feta
Soup
Local Butternut Squash, Apple, Rosemary,Coopers Farm Cream, Toasted Focaccia
Course Two (Choose One)
Local Root Vegetable & Smoked Duck Hash, Soft Cooked Local Egg, Crispy Parsnip
Buttermilk Cornmeal Waffle, Crispy Fried Freebird Chicken Thigh, Pickled Peach Relish
Course Three (Choose One)
Caramel Bread Pudding, Wormtown Sweet Tats Gelee, Coopers Farm Chantilly Cream
Coopers Farm Coffee Milk & Warm Soft Chocolate Chip Cookies
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Tweed's Pub & Restaurant
Address: 229 Grove Street, Worcester
Site: Tweed's Pub & Restuarant
Restaurant Week Menu:
3 Course Meal Choice 1:
- Crisp House Caesar Salad
- New York Sirloin Strip: A Savory 12 Ounce Hand Carved New York Sirloin Steak Flame-Broiled to Your Liking. Served with Choice of Potato and Today's Fresh Vegetable
- Yummy Homemade Grapenut Pudding
3 Course Meal Choice 2:
- Cup of New England Clam Chowder
- Lazy Lobster Pie: Rich shucked Lobster Meat Baked en Casserole with Homemade Maritime Stuffing. Served with French Fries, Coleslaw and Drawn Butter.
- Tweed's Strawberry Shortcake
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Two Chefs
Address: 8 Donnelly Road, Spencer
Site: Two Chefs Restaurant
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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The Urban
Address: 225 Shrewsbury Street, Worcester
Site: The Urban
Restaurant Week Menu:
APPETIZERS
SALSIFY CLAM CHOWDER
ARUGULA + SQUASH SALAD
COUNTRY DUCK PATÉ
MAINS
HOUSEMADE FRESH BLACK PEPPER TAGLIATELLE
*ARCTIC CHAR
CHICKEN + DUMPLINGS
DESSERTS
CARROT CAKE
CHOCOLATE PANNA COTTA
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Peppercorn's
Address: 455 Park Avenue, Worcester
Site: Peppercorn's
Restaurant Week Menu
(Official restaurant week menu has not yet been released.)
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