The Cellar: Blending Away
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Friday, April 01, 2016
Steffen Rasch, GoLocalWorcester Wine Writer
This week is all about blends; specifically red blends – excellent for pairing with most grilled meats off the BBQ. Both of these wines are big and bold with deep and dark fruit flavors, yet both display elements of savoriness adding to the complexity.
This week's first featured wine is a red Bordeaux styled blend from South Africa. The $22 ‘Brew Master' is one of the wines from Nederburg's 'Heritage Heroes' collection; a limited-edition series of wine that celebrates the story of Nederburg’s Estate's heroes. The Brewmaster refers to Johann Graue who acquired the land in Western Cape, South Africa, in 1937.
The 2011 Brew Master is a ‘true’ Bordeaux blend made of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The hand-harvested grapes, which were sourced from various plots in Darling and Paarl, were vinified separately. After sorting, the fruit was fermented on the skins in a combination of open wooden fermenters and stainless steel tanks. After fermentation was juice was allowed extended skin contact before it was pressed off and transferred to French oak barrels to mature for 18 months. The resulting wine is fruit-forward, succulent and delicious. I particularly appreciate the Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, which adds texture and savory notes of dried herbs and smoked meat. Good stuff!
This week's second featured wine is the $48ish Leviathan red blend from California. The Leviathan wine project is the brain child of Annie Favia and winemaker Andy Erikson, who has lived in Napa Valley since the mid 1990's and worked for and with iconic producers such as Harlan Estate, Stag's Leap and Screaming Eagle. With Leviathan the goal was simple: to produce one singular red wine sourcing grapes from vineyards across California.
As with most well-made blended wines the climatic conditions of the season dictates the exact proportions of the final blend. In 2012 conditions were phenomenal resulting in a delicious wine made from 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot and 14% Syrah. After blending the wine was aged for 23 months in 50% new oak barrels. This is a massive wine, filled to the brim with ripe fruit flavor and loads of texture. The fruit is dark, deep and rich with notes of blackberries, dark plumbs and cedar. I enjoy the slightly drying tannic grip on this wine – it shows character. Once again the Cabernet Franc plays a crucial role in that it adds an element of savory herbaceousness balancing the otherwise very fruit-forward wine.
Cheers,
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Follow him on Twitter or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings at the Providence Wine Academy.
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