The Cellar: Delicious Wine from France’s Loire Valley

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Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Steffen Rasch, GoLocal Wine Critic

Besides from having named France’s most famous river, the Loire is also home to some of the country’s best wines. If you have never had a wine from Loire now is the time, as these offer both quality and value. Among the most popular wines from this exciting region are the ones made from Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc. These are not your everyday varietals, but nevertheless varietals I suggest you seek out and taste. Who knows? You might fall in love with wine all over again.
2010 Chateau Soucherie Anjou Blanc ‘Cuvee Les Rangs de Long’

The Tijou family has been making wine in the Chaume area of the Loire Valley since 1780. Pierre-Yves Tijou, the current proprietor, took over the management of the estate in 1969 and began to bottle a portion of the production, which had traditionally been sold to négociants – wine merchants who purchase grapes or finished wine from small growers and producers and bottle it under their own label. Today, all of the 60,000 to 75,000 bottles of wine produced here is done so at the Estate. The Domaine is composed of 75 acres of vineyards, of which approximately 50 acres is planted with Chenin Blanc; with smaller parcels of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Gamay.

Wines within the basic ‘Anjou Blanc’ appellation must be made from at least 80% Chenin Blanc with Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc permitted to fill out the remaining 20% of the blend. The 2010 ‘Cuvee Les Rangs de Long’ from Soucherie is made from 100% hand-harvested Chenin Blanc, which is then fermented in stainless steel to preserve its bright fruit and mouthwatering acidity. This is an awesome wine filled with delicious citrus fruit flavors, alongside pears, hints of honey and lingering minerality. This is a wine I love by itself, but that I also see going with fresh, lightly prepared seafood.

2009 Frédéric Mabileau St Nicolas de Bourgueil. ‘Les Rouillères’

Cabernet Franc is one of my favorite varietals. Originally grown in Bordeaux and blending into the region’s wines adding aromatic complexity to the more muscular Cabernet Sauvignon, the grape is now primarily

grown in the Loire where it is the most widely planted red varietals. In the commune of Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil, located a couple of miles northwest of Bourgueil itself, winemakers produce mostly red wines made from Cabernet Franc and a small quantity of rose. The wines from this part of the Loire are characterized by their crisp, refreshing acidity and prominent spiced-fruit flavors. They must be made almost entirely from Cabernet Franc, although up to 10% Cabernet Sauvignon is allowed.
Frédéric and Nahalie Mabileau have a 66 acre organic Estate in St. Nicolas. However, instead of me giving you the usual spiel, I recommend you check out this video featuring Frédéric himself talking about the ’08 vintage of the same wine. Cool stuff! I like this 100% Cab Franc because of its light body and expressive earthy, borderline ‘dirty’, aromas. It has lovely bright red fruit flavors, as well as a significant dose of earth. A great quality, entry-level Cab Franc for under $20.

Enjoy!

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected].

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