The Cellar: Fresh Austrian Flavors

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Steffen Rasch, GoLocal Wine Critic

Growing in popularity, and with good reason: the wines of Austria.

Austrian wines are becoming increasingly popular with American wine drinkers. Not only because of the high quality of their international varietals, but also because they bring a bunch of new varietals to the table. This week we will be exploring one of each; a delicious dry Riesling and a velvety Zweigelt, both from Austria’s famed Wagram wine region and both available for under $20.

2009 Anton Bauer Riesling, Berg, Wagram, Austria

Austria’s Wagram wine growing region, formerly known as Donauland, stretches from Krems in the west to the town of Klosterneuburg in the east and borders Vienna’s wine growing region. In wine-growing terms, Wagram can be

divided into two parts – north and south of the Danube River, which runs almost the entire length of the region. The combination of the region's rich, dust-like soil, called Loess, and its continental climate makes for great conditions to grow certain grapes like Gruner Veltliner, Riesling and lighter red varietals as well.

The Bauer family winery has been in operation for four generations. Since 1992, the current owner, Anton Bauer, has been responsible for managing the combined 50 acres of vineyards, as well as their winery. Anton Bauer makes the traditional white wines Gruner Veltliner and Riesling, as well as some excellent red wines. He sources his grapes from three vineyards, the southerly descending ‘Berg’ vineyard being the one where his Riesling vines grow. Anton Bauer’s 2009 Riesling from Berg is lovely! It is a dry Riesling with tons of pear, nice mineral notes and a mouthwatering acidity.

2009 Ecker Eckhof Zweigelt

The Zweigelt grape variety was developed in 1922 and is named after its creator, scientist Frtiz Zweigelt. It was developed at the Austria’s Institute for Viticulture and Pomology and came into existence by crossing the highly aromatic

and dark-skinned St. Laurent, a close cousin of Pinot Noir, with Blaufränkisch, a late-ripening tannic and spicy grape varietal that is one of my personal favorites. Zweigelt is now the most widely-grown red grape variety in Austria, as well as having made its presence felt in other parts of the world.

The Ecker family has made wine at this 50 acre estate for over 300 years! Today, the family owns vines in a few different vineyards, among them the same ‘Berg Vineyard’ where Anton Bauer grows his Riesling. The 2009 Ecker Zweigelt is a limited production wine – with only 6,000 cases produced. To me, this wine comes across like an interesting mix between Gamay and Pinot Noir, with just a hint of something fuller, like a Merlot. There are a lot of bright red fruit flavors in this wine, as well as noticeable earthiness, but the body is medium to medium-plus and extremely velvety. This is a great wine that can be sipped by itself, or paired with a light meat dish or most heavy fish dishes.

Enjoy!

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected]. And as always, don’t forget to follow GoLocalProv’s Wine Cellar on Facebook and sign up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.