The Cellar: France’s Rhone Valley

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Steffen Rasch, GoLocal Wine Critic

After having recently explored two interesting wines from the Loire, we now turn our attention to another one of France’s wine growing regions located along a river. More specifically, we turn our attention south east to the Rhone River Valley where wines have been made since the 1st century BC and where the popular grape varietal Syrah rules the North and blends featuring Syrah, as well as Grenache make out the bulk of the red wines produced in the South.

If you have a thirst for more and would like to expand your knowledge about wine in a fun and relaxing atmosphere, you should consider attending my ‘Evening with Wine’ events. The next such event, featuring the interesting and unique wines of South America, is scheduled for Friday February 24th, 2012. For more information visit www.ProvidenceWineAcademy.com

2007 Ferraton Pere et Fils, La Matiniere, Crozes-Hermitage, France

The wines that come out of the Northern and the Southern part of the Rhone Valley are different in more ways than one. The two sub-regions, which are physically divided by a 30 mile mixed residential stretch, have

distinctly different soils and climates which results in uniquely different wines. The red wines from the North are made exclusively from Syrah and either from the hands of individuals working a family vineyard or from negociants who purchase the grapes and make a wine under his or her own label. They are usually very limited releases resulting in a very low overall sub-regional output. In fact only 5% of the Rhone’s total production comes out of the North.

The Syrah grapes that make up the 2007 La Matiniere by Negociant Ferraton is sourced from Crozes-Hermitage - the biggest sub-region of the northern Rhone covering approximately 3.000 acres. Despite being the same grape Syrahs from the Rhone and Shiraz’s from Australian are very different wines. Whereas Shiraz is big, bold and all over the place (often hedonistic in its over-the-top dark fruits and chocolate), Syrahs from the northern Rhone are leaner and more precise. There is a lot of bright red fruit in this wine as opposed to dark fruit, as well racing acidity, which is something you don’t often see in Shiraz from down-under. This makes Northern Rhone wines excellent food wines.

2009 Les Vins de Vienne, Cote-Du-Rhone, Les Cranilles, France

Where the North enjoys the stable conditions of a continental climate, the South’s Mediterranean climate enjoy warmer average temperatures. But because of the cooling breezes from the ocean the growing conditions are considered more unstable. 70% of the wines from the South are made not by single family growers, but by groups of growers, known as co-operatives, who blend their grapes together. Because these wines are made from grapes grown in various locations within the 100.000+ acre appellation the wines are labeled simply ‘Cote-du-Rhone’. The looser rules in the South allow for farmers to have high yields, to irrigate their vineyards, as well as grow a wider variety of grapes. Once inside winery the winemakers are allowed to add sugar to the fermenting must thereby increasing their alcohol levels. All these factors result in high production levels.

Because not every producer seeks to maximize production - but is more focused on creating a quality product - the quality and prices of Cote-du-Rhones often vary greatly. So get tasting and start familiarizing yourself with a couple of producers. I suggest you start with the $15 Les Cranilles. This lovely wine from Les Vins de Vienne is a quality example made from Syrah, Grenache and Mouvedre. 2009 was a great vintage in the Rhone and this wine exemplifies that with lush red and dark fruit, delicious spices and silky smooth tannins. This medium-bodied wine tastes great by itself, but also goes well with various game, pork or poultry dishes.

Enjoy!!

Steffen Rasch CSW is ready to answer any wine-related questions, comments or concerns you may have. Feel free to email him at [email protected]. And as always, don’t forget to follow GoLocalProv’s Wine Cellar on Facebook.