The Cellar: Loire & More Day 9

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Tuesday, October 14, 2014

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalWorcester Wine Writer

Day #10 – Lugny, Mâconnais

I spent yesterday traveling from Sancerre and the Loire Valley to Côte de Beaune in Burgundy – more specifically to (perhaps) the most famous town in the entire wine world – Meursault. While I visited some really good producers in Meursault, including Ropiteau Frères, Domaine Jean Monnier and Domaine Delagrange, what I was really looking forward to was this morning’s visit in Lugny, located in Burgundy’s southernmost sub-region; the Mâconnais. Unlike the wines of the north which can easily cost $50-$60 per bottle the Mâconnais is the home of Burgundy’s more modestly prices wines; wines that are often great value.

The absolutely gorgeous drive along the back roads took me south through some of the most famous villages in all of (white) Burgundy, including Puligny-Montrachet and Chessagne-Montrachet. To get to the Mâconnais I also had to drive through Côte Chalonnaise where I had the opportunity to make a stop in one of my personal favorite appellations for moderately priced red Burgundy (Pinot Noir): the town of Givry.

My appointment this morning was with the head winemaker at Cave de Lugny Gregoire Pissot. With more than 250 ‘member growers’ Cave de Lugny is the region’s largest wine cooperative. While every farmer grows his or her grapes independently it is the cooperative’s responsibility to make all the wine, as well as to market and sell it. Between 85% and 90% of the wines Cave de Lugny produces are Chardonnays with a little bit of Aligote, Gamay and Pinot Noir being vinified also, albeit mostly for sparkling wine. Except for one of their Cuvées all of their whites are fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks– so no oak flavors here. These wines are fresh, delicious and ready to be consumed.

To call Cave de Lugny a big producer would be an understatement as the cooperative is responsible for almost 50% of the wines produced in all of the Mâconnais. As with any producer this size Cave de Lugny produces a series of basic wines, as well a series of more serious ones, each of which are labeled according to their appellation. With growers located throughout the Mâcon Cave du Lugny benefits from all the different soils of the region. In the northern part of the Mâcon the soils are rich in limestone producing Chardonnay that is lighter, more aromatic and minerally. To the south the soils are rich in clay, which retains water producing grapes that are fatter with more ripe fruit flavors. In the middle, where Lugny is located, there is a mix of the two soils, with patches of chalk.

I really enjoyed their basic 2013 Mâcon-Villages, which is made from Chardonnay grapes sourced from throughout the three areas: 20% from the north, 20% from the south and 60% from around Lugny. Gregoire’s goal is to make the style of this Cuvée consistent from year to year. At €5.60 (well under $10) this wines is absolutely delicious; medium-bodied with lovely peaches and solid acidity.

Their flagship wine, a wine which has been distributed to the US since the 1970’s, is their Mâcon-Lugny named after the vineyard located immediately next to the winery ‘Les Charmes’. This wine, which is made from 35-40 year old vines, is richer with more concentrated stone fruit flavors.

Although not available in the US – yet – their series of Crémant de Bourgogne (sparkling wines) deserves a shout out. Gregorie currently oversees the production of four Cremants including the stunning ‘Millésime’; a traditionally made vintage Cuvée made from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged for 18 months. Price? Less than €9 per bottle. Great wines at great prices. Absolutely worth seeking out!

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.

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