The Cellar: Thanksgiving Add-Ons
Thursday, November 27, 2014
NV Paul Cheneau, Blanc de Blancs, Reserva, Cava, Penedes, Spain
I like to pour bubbles as an aperitif and Spanish Cavas are among my absolute favorites. I have always hailed Cavas for being (generally) of good quality and delicious, not to mention great values. While most $10 Cavas are meant to be straightforward sparklers there is a more serious side to this category – a wine perfect for greeting your Thanksgiving guests – the Cava Reservas. These wines exude more ‘champagne-like’ characteristics including increased intensity of bubbles and flavor, more pronounced acidity along with the traditional yeasty and biscuity flavors and aromas associated with good traditionally made sparkling wines - characteristics that come with extended bottle aging. That said these wines are often still very reasonably priced at well under $20.
The traditional grape varieties that form the base in most Cavas are the indigenous grape varieties Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. That said the Champagne grapes Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are also being used in some Cavas, especially in better quality examples like this week’s Reserva from Paul Cheneau. To qualify as a ‘Reserva’ the wine must age for a minimum of 15 months in the bottle, as opposed to 9 months for basic Cava. Cheneau’s Reserva ‘Blanc de Blanc’ has 10% Chardonnay in the base blend and has been aged for 24 months. The result is a deliciously intense sparkling wine that boasts of dry fruits, toast and citrus. Delicious.
Taylor Fladgate ’20 Year Old Tawny Porto’, Oporto, Portugal
All Port wines start their life as any other regional red wines and are made from grapes sourced from the hot and arid Douro Valley. Each Port house has their own signature blend; most of them based on the traditional grape varieties Touriga Nacional , Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo) and Touriga Francesa. During fermentation, however, grape brandy is added to the fermenting must killing all the yeasts bringing fermentation to a screeching halt. The result is a densely colored red wine that is high in alcohol, as well as high in non-converted residual grape sugar. In making Tawny Port the wine then goes to age.
As the name indicates the base wine in Taylor’s ‘20 Year Old Tawny’ has been aged for an average of 20 years in oak barrels. The extended aging causes the wine to oxidize and with oxidation comes a concentration of flavors, as well as a change of color from dark red (ruby) to brown (tawny). Taylor’s 20 Year Tawny is ready to drink and absolutely delectable with aromas and flavors of hazelnuts, fig preserves with hints of clove. While sweet and rich, this wine is by no means cloying as it finishes surprisingly savory. Try this stunning wine with milk chocolate desserts, nuts or dried fruits. Or pair with a cheese plate as Tawny Ports generally pair well with hard cheeses.
Cheers & Happy Thanksgiving!
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.
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