The Cellar: A Loire Valley Powerhouse

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Friday, December 05, 2014

Steffen Rasch, GoLocalProv Wine Writer

On Sunday, December 14th I will be hosting a wine tasting at the Providence Wine Academy featuring some of the wines from my recent travels through France’s Loire valley. Among the wines featured will be an absolutely stunning Pinot Noir; the 2012 Sancerre Rouge from Domaine de la Perrière. 

Domaine de la Perriere

Domaine de la Perriere is one of a handful Estates owned by the Saget family; a family that has been growing grapes in the Loire Valley since 1790. Le Domaine Saget, which the original Estate is called, almost went out of business 40 years ago when Guy Saget, current proprietor Jean-Louis’ father, died suddenly. Alongside his brother, 20 year-old Jean-Louis overcame poor odds and succeeded not only in revitalizing the original Estate located in Loire’s easternmost Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation, but to expand operations west, through Sancerre and into the Touraine and Anjou.

During my trip I spent a day with Jean-Louis’ son Arnaud, who showed me some of his family’s vineyards and wineries in Pouilly and Sancerre. One of the more memorable stops was at a vineyard in Pouilly called ‘Les Roches’. This 2.5 acre vineyard, which is planted with Sauvignon Blanc, has been in the family since the beginning and yields some of the Estate's best fruit. I would later sample the 2010 bottling, which has been aged on the lees for 8 months and then two years in the bottle. This is an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc that is brimming with creamy citrus and a flinty, nervy minerality.

Domaine de Grandes Esperances

Another one of Saget’s family wineries is called Domaine de Grandes Esperances (Great Expectations). This winery is located in Loire’s central Touraine wine region and produces, among others, a series of single variety wines made from Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Malbec, known locally as Cot. The wine called ‘Supernova’ is 100% Cot and probably the best Loire Valley Malbec I have ever tasted. The hand harvested fruits are gently pressed and oaked for 12 months. This is a great example of Malbec; one that combines cool-climate red fruits, savory earthy notes with spice and a gentle touch of softening oak. Delicious!

After lunch Arnaud took me to the town of Verdigny-en-Sancerre to visit Domaine de la Perrière, an Estate the Saget family purchased 1996. With this historic Estate came, not only two dozen acres of prime flinty vineyards, but also its iconic winery located inside caves which are carved into the hillside. This Domaine is dedicated to producing Sancerre; primarily white, but also red and rosé made from Pinot. It was especially interesting to taste the differences between the ‘Caillottes’ & ‘Silex’ representing two different terroirs. The Calliottes was very aromatic - brimming with tropical fruits - while the Silex was softer with classic citrus and flint. Great wines and stunning winery - absolutely worth a visit should you ever make the trip.

The Loire Valley

This article concludes this year’s feature on France’s Loire Valley. As you can guess, I am a huge fan as I believe that the diversity, quality and value this region brings to the table is unmatched anywhere else in the wine world. The Loire literally offers every wine imaginable; great sparkling wines, light and rich white and reds, and even dessert wines – and most of them at very competitive prices. So the next time you’re shopping for wine ask your merchant to recommend one from the Loire – I guarantee you won’t regret it. 

Cheers!

Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related question or learn about wine in person by signing up for one of his tastings through the Providence Wine Academy.

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