The Cellar: Look Beyond the Label
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Friday, September 04, 2015
Steffen Rasch, GoLocalWorcester Wine Writer
While the name ‘Bordeaux’ might sound expensive the fact is that not all wine produced in this vast region carry the heavy price tags of the classified growths. In fact, most of them, reds as well as whites, are great values. As part of preparing for a November tasting at the
Providence Wine Academy I have sampled a slew of wines from Bordeaux - among them a bunch of wonderful whites.
While the label rarely tells you what is inside a bottle of white Bordeaux the regional rules dictate that only certain grapes are allowed. The most commonly utilized grapes are Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, so chances are that the wine is a blend of these two grapes - perhaps with a splash of Muscadelle. If the label reads simply ‘Bordeaux’ and no other sub-region is indicated on the bottle it usually means that the wine is made from grapes sourced from throughout the region. These wines are often the best values.
This week’s featured example is such a wine; the 2013 Bordeaux Blanc from Domaines Barons de Rothchild. Priced at around $15 this 55% Sémillon / 45% Sauvignon blend is everything you’ll want from a hot summer day sipper. It has that great high-acid Sauvignon Blanc grapefruit flavor, but the wine is restrained by the mellow Sémillon which adds stone fruit flavors and a healthy dose of minerality. The wine has a long finish and a great mouth puckering texture. All in all, a great blend and a fantastic value for $15ish.
This week’s second featured wine – a great dinner red - is a single vineyard Syrah from Washington State. More specifically, it is the 2012 ‘DLD’ Syrah from
Hedges Family Estate. The grapes for this wine are grown in a 15 acre vineyard named ‘Les Gosses’ located in the tiny Red Mountain American Viticultural Area (AVA). This 4,000 acre AVA, a sub-region of the larger Columbia Valley AVA, is the source of a lot of Washington’s best wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.
The wine is a homage to proprietor Anne-Marie Liegeois Hedges who in 1976 said goodbye to her life in Champagne, France and left for the United States with her new husband Tom Hedges. This wine is dedicated to her grand-father Marcel Dupont, Chevalier du Tastevin and bon-vivant, lover of good food and great wines.
Normally a limited production, single vineyard wine such as this would cost a pretty penny. However, in this case the suggested retail price of $26.99 makes it a real steal. Because this wine is seriously delicious! While still very young, the wine currently comes across as a savory blend of old world and new world Syrah. This is far from an ‘Australian Shiraz fruit bomb’. The flavors are tempered and balanced - rustic and earthy which makes me think of a Northern Rhone Syrah. Yet, the wine’s texture is on the softer side with hints of oak on the finish – arguably a result of the 14 months in 30% new oak. If you’re looking to taste something beyond Australian Shiraz, look for this outstanding wine.
Cheers,
Steffen Rasch is a Certified Sommelier and Specialist of Wine. Feel free to email him at [email protected] with any wine-related questions.
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Hardwick
Hardwick Vineyard & Winery
Central Mass’s own Hardwick Vineyard & Winery, open March-December, is a close to home treasure that produces 3,000 gallons of wine each year. The winery, which grows 6 varieties of grapes, is built on a quiet road in Hardwick that abuts the Quabbin Reservoir. Located on the property is a majestic 200 year old mansion. This weekend, take the trip to the vineyard to enjoy a wine tasting. Favorites include Massetts Cranberry and Yankee Girl Blush. If you head out on a Sunday; you’ll be in luck—the winery is hosting Sangria Sundays for the rest of the month.
3305 Greenwich Road, Hardwick, MA. (413) 967-7763.
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Westport Rivers
Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery
Tucked away on the southern coast of Massachusetts, Westport Rivers Vineyard & Winery, located about an hour’s drive from Worcester, is worth the trip. For only $10, you can take home a special edition etched wine glass and enjoy a tasting of up to six of their award-winning wines. While the tasting room is open Monday-Saturday, free winery tours are also offered to the public every Saturday from 1-3pm.
417 Hixbridge Rd, Westport, MA. (508) 636-3423.
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Coastal Vineyards
A relatively young addition to the Massachusetts family of wineries and vineyards, Coastal Vineyards in South Dartmouth opened its doors in 2004. Coastal Vineyards grows eight varieties of grapes on their property, including Riesling, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and more. For a special treat, head over on Sunday for their Ugly Sweater Wine Party featuring acoustic musician Ryan Thaxter. Don your ugliest sweater to get 35% off your purchase—and a chance at a prize.
61 Pardon Hill Road, South Dartmouth, MA.
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Amherst Farm Winery
Head out to one of Massachusetts’s favorite college towns this weekend to check out Amherst Farm Winery. Enjoy a wine tasting set in a cozy 19th century post and beam dairy barn. For only $5 receive a logo glass and a taste of 5 of their 15 wines, including unique flavors like chocolate raspberry, pumpkin frost, cranberry, and more. Bring a picnic and cozy up on their leather sofa by the fire to enjoy your wine with a snack.
529 Belchertown Road, Amherst, MA. (413) 253-1400.
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Nashoba Valley WInery
Take the bite off the winter chill this weekend and take a drive to Nashoba Valley Winery in Bolton. The winery hosts tasting events everyday from 10am-4:30pm For $5, receive a free tasting glass and samples of up to five different wines. Some favorites include Strawberry Rhubarb Wine, Holiday Special Cranberry Apple (a new release in November 2013), and New English Cider. If you are in the mood for something other than wine (if that’s possible), check out their beer selection as well!
100 Wattaquadock Hill Road, Bolton, MA. (978) 779-5521.
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Mill River Winery
Mill River Winery, located in Rowley, is the perfect wine destination for a mini-getaway. Enjoy the gorgeous winter scenery of Western Massachusetts as you wind through country roads to the winery. Mill River’s tasting room is housed in a refurbished cider mill, complete with eclectic décor that provides for an excellent tasting and shopping experience. Try their delicious Naked Chardonnay, a full bodied chardonnay with aromatic notes of lemon zest and pear. If you would like to get a “Dirt to Bottle Tour,” make sure to be at the winery at 2pm or 4pm Saturday or Sunday.
498 Newburyport Turnpike, Rowley, MA. (978) 432-1280.
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Black Birch Vineyard
For only $6, get the full Black Birch Vineyard experience—tasting and a tour! Enjoy the great mix of contemporary and rustic décor of the tasting room and the local culture of this Massachusetts winery. While you’re in, be sure to try their award winning selection of reds and whites.
155 Glendale Road, Southampton, MA. (413) 527-0164.
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Taylor Brook Winery
Located just over the border, Taylor Brook Winery in Woodstock, CT, is a hidden gem. This winery tends to over 2,000 vines of the finest grapes in the region. Head down to enjoy the country hospitality of this great local business, which offers tastings, bottles of their wine, and other great gift items for purchase. For a delicious winter wine, try their Winter Pomegranate.
848 Route 171, Woodstock, CT. (860) 974-1263.
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Obadiah McIntyre Farm
Obadiah McIntyre Farm Winery
The Obadiah McIntyre Farm Winery is located on the Charlton Orchards Farm property. The winery is owned and operated by a family that has been in the business of growing fruit for over 50 years, and began making wine in 1999. They are dedicated to making the best tasting wines around. Every weekend until the end of December, join them for a tasting and see for yourself.
44 Old Worcester Road, Charlton, MA. (508) 248-7941.
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Puttney Mountain Winery
Just over the Vermont border, Putney Mountain Winery located inside Basketville, has been making delicious local wines since the 1990s. All of their wines are crafted from local produce, which makes for the best tasting wine possible. If you’re toting the kids along for the day, the winery also sells juices made from locally grown produce, like their Putney Bubbly Vermont Sparkling Black Currant.
8 Bellows Falls Road, Putney, VT. (802) 387-5925.
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